Alderney to Lezardrieux 5/8 to 6/8

So after two nights at Alderney it was time to go. First though an early trip in the water taxi for me to fill up the spare fuel cans. Then a quick breakfast. We weighed anchor at 0950 and despite Mick doing his best to run AS over the sunken breakwater we cleared the obstacle and headed down the Swinge in an increasingly fresh North Westerly that during the course of the day backed initially to WSS and the veered back to the West.

No need for the engine on this passage, I finally had what I had been wishing for - wind and plenty of it! We started off with one reef in 20+ knots of wind. As the day progressed the wind gradually increased and by mid afternoon we put in a second reef as the wind rose to 25+ knots. Shortly afterwards Jersey Coastguard caught up with events and issued a strong wind warning for the area - as if we didn't know. The seas built up significantly and with the boat being close hauled for most of the time we began to get a little damp. AS was always comfortable but we got the odd dollop of green stuff in the cockpit and some of it dripped its way through the bridge deck and over the VHF radio and quarter berth. Bernie later diagnosed the likely route being the slightly loose teak slats running across the bridge deck in front of the main traveller. He also commented that the battering the traveller had taken during the Plymouth repairs had also probably opened up some gaps.

Between Alderney and Guernsey we were joined by a large pod of common dolphins. Unfortunately conditions were such that I did not dare risk my phone to take photographs.

A few miles SW of Guernsey the wind increased further and backed further into the south west requiring us to tack and head north west for a few miles. During this period the wind was frequently 27 knots and gusts of 30 were seen on the wind gauge.

I was a little concerned about whether all the crew were happy to continue south and pointed out that we could divert to St Helier, Jersey if necessary. However after a brief conflab we agreed to press on. Mick in particular was keen to finally make Brittany after all those years.

An hour or so later the wind eased a little and veered back to the west allowing us to tack back on to a southerly heading which we held all the way to Lezardrieux. Within a few more hours both reefs were shaken out and we were under all sail once again.

We did not set off with Lezardriuex as our definite destination but it soon became clear that at our rate of progress we would make landfall during the night and short of standing off and waiting for daylight we needed a port with good lights to guide us in. The approach to Lezardrieux and indeed all the rock strewn Brittany coast, looks rather intimidating to the first timer, especially at night. However, Lezardrieux has excellent leading lights and so our choice was easily made.

A little dispute arose between skipper and mate about the identity of the marks but after a short period of confusion the lights were identified at about 2330 and we followed them in. After a while it became clear that the skipper was not up to countering the strong west flowing tide and we were pushed off our line for a while. A local fishing boat steamed up close during this period and flashed her lights - I afterwards realised that she was probably trying to warn us that we were off line but at the time I hurled uncomplimentary remarks in her direction.

It was a very dark night and a long river with the leading lights being the only lights on the river. Very dark shadowy columns and lumps slid past sometimes alarmingly close and I was very glad we were back on line. Then a moment of blind panic - a new set of lights replaced the original ones and as these separated and could no longer be followed and before the line of the new lights became clear I had no idea which way to turn the boat. Fortunately the mate was conning the boat with the aid of the laptop chart-plotter down below and was able to guide us through the turn. Nothing sharp stuck through the bottom of the boat and I breathed a big sigh of relief.

By 0130 we had arrived at the sight of the Marina and moored up on the waiting pontoon in the middle of the river.

Rough key stats:

Departed Braye Alderney at 0950 on 5/8/13
Total passage hours to river mouth - 13.75
Total distance over ground = 75 nautical miles
Average speed 5.5k
Total passage hours to marina 15.5
Total distance over ground = 80 nautical miles
Average speed 5.2k
Total engine hours 4
Total sailing hours = 9.25
Arrived Lezardrieux marina 0130 on 6/8/13

Later that day after a good night's sleep we motored into the marina and if memory serves me correctly we did a number of odd jobs around the boat and finally got ashore for a beer at the local bar at about 1630.

No customs officials were in evidence - indeed we saw none the whole trip and were never asked for Passports or ships papers. The marina staff were most friendly but we later found that the easy access berth near the outside of the marina to which we had been directed had one major disadvantage. It was in middle of the river and therefore not only did arrival (by accident) and departure (by design) have to be timed to be at slack water, but also the stream at full flood or ebb excerpted enormous pressure on the boat and pontoon. In the middle of the following night just after we had retired to bed we heard an alarming cracking/banging sound. We emerged to find out french neighbours already on deck. Their much bigger and higher boat had pulled the pontoon up above our fenders! We had to rig a complex series of lines to pull ourselves off from under the lip of the pontoon. Fortunately no damage was done.

Lezardrieux's chruch

The town proved to be even smaller than we thought and was "done" in half an hour. However we found a lovely restaurant and had a truly excellent dinner. It proved to be the best of the trip. The skipper even bought a bottle of champagne to celebrate our arrival in Brittany, some 35 years or so since he and the mate first attempted the trip.

Dinner in Lezardrieux

Having done Lezardrieux in half an hour the next day we caught a taxi to Paimpol another delightful harbour town a few miles to the east. A beautiful spot and it would have been delightful to berth there but the approach to the locked harbour dries out and they were preparing for hosting the Classic Channel Regatta at the weekend and so we probably could not have got in anyway.

We explored the harbour and town, had lunch and the guys bought fishing tackle for a later assault on the local mackerel population!

Classic Preparations

Local classics

English classics!

A British classic

A classic bookshop

A classic lunch in Paimpol

Next up Treguier - 5 miles or so West as the crow flies, but we had to go back down the river hop along the coast and down the next river. Probably nearer 25 miles as a boat swims.

Guernsey to Alderney 3/8/13

The tides dictated a late afternoon start so we slept in and breakfasted late - or was it an early lunch?

It was a pleasant afternoon and we were sailing within half an hour of departing the marina. We abandoned our initial plans to fill up with fuel (having previously done so at Portsmouth and Plymouth) due to a rather lengthy que and safe in the knowledge that we did not have far to go.

A fine sail to Alderney followed, on if memory serves me right, a beam reach in a civilised westerly. We recalled the advice we received from a local Guernsey Fisherman all those years ago - aim for Burhou and you'll be OK. The infamous Swinge was in fairly docile mood on our arrival with the westerly wind blowing in the same direction as the early flood. Even so enough of a chop developed off Burhou to remind us of what the Swinge was capable of delivering in less benign conditions.

Alderney may be my favourite island for a number of reasons but one sticks vividly in mind. At the tender age of 16 Alderney loomed out of the gloom at the end of my first every channel crossing. That one was on the Ocean Youth Club Pilot Cutter 'Equinox' and the landfall was quite simply the most amazing experience of my 16 years - absolutely magic. In those old pre-gadget days (30 years ago - only a couple of years after that first landfall - when I sailed on my Dad's standing gaff cutter, the most advanced technology we possessed was an occasional echo sounder (i.e. it worked sometimes) and a chip log - not counting the fancy RDF set that I could never master - new technology - pah); ensuring that one cleared the sunken breakwater was something of a challenge especially in poor visibility. This time though our GPS units and my laptop plotter made the task much easier. Mind you we still struggled to identify the leading marks correctly, but didn't follow the boat in front who went straight over it.

As we entered Braye harbour it was clear that whilst Alderney was still the island I had grown to love, things had changed. The 12 yellow visitors buoys had multiplied into closer to 50 and everyone was taken. We therefore anchored in 9 meters on the Eastern side of the harbour close to the North Cardinal and a very handsome one time steam yacht.

Our neighbour in Braye!

Later that evening

Hooray, we actually sailed more hours than we motored for the first time on the cruise (but note the rather short distance below).

Rough key stats:

Departed St Peter Port 3/8 1540
Total distance over ground = 22.5 miles
Total hours = 4
Total Engine hours = 0.50
Total Sailing hours = 3.50
Average Speed over ground = 5.6k
Arrived Braye 1930
Anchored 2027

It was late in the evening so despite mutinous mutterings from certain quarters we decided to stay on board and enjoy yet another excellent meal prepared by Bernie. And so reasonably early to bed. Except that there was  a beach party in full swing. This is no exaggeration - it was still going at 0800 the following morning! Those Alderney folk know how to party.

The next morning we hailed the water taxi (a new innovation since our previous visits) and went ashore.

The view from the quay in the morning

And another one!

First stop the the immortal Divers. Not quite the hostelry of old, but still a good pub and infinitely better than anything Guernsey had to offer. The wild seascape photos on the walls of yesteryear had been replaced by various "Divers" images. Appropriate enough but not quite the real thing.

The bar maid was very pleasant if a bit bleary eyed and we discovered the reason (for her bleary eyes) she left the party early at 0600! Some of her pals were in a far worse state and I supposed must have only just left! We also discovered the reason for the celebrations - it was Alderney Week!

After a swift pint - or was it two? .. we continued on our way up the hill to St Anne. Mick declared that having given up smoking some considerable time ago - he was fitter than he was at 25. Not having smoked I had to accept that I was not!

On arriving in St Anne we noticed that the locals were laying out their wares on various stalls up an down the high street. Pretty impressive given that many of them had been partying until 0800 that morning. Perhaps that was why we secured some excellent bargains - CD's at 50p a throw allowed us to stock up the boat's music library and I picked up a classy hip flask for a fiver.

We explored the town further - it was still as attractive as I remembered and quaintly some of the pubs still only opened on occasional days - Mick's favourite had however turned into an Art Gallery! Time for lunch. After inspecting the scene where yours truly fell asleep in his dinner some 30 years ago ....

As it says on the wall

.... we returned to the centre of town to a pub I have forgotten the name of (help guys) and had a most superb lunch. This was followed by a walk around the north Eastern corner of the island - as beautiful as ever ...

A humble Alderney home

The harbour from afar

Alderney delights - all the above

Then back to the boat for (yes you guessed it) and consideration of our next passage. That dam low was still lurking over the Irish Sea and so we finally had to let go of the idea of the Scilly Isles and turn our attention to Brittany. This had certain compensations (and we were to discover more) namely that Mick and I had spent many years on the trot in the 70's trying to get there on my Dad's boat. We never got any nearer than Jersey, so to get there now provided a certain symmetry to our trip. The die was caste. The next day we would head south once more.

Plymouth to Guernsey 31/7 - 1/8

Through no fault of Eurospar's, the spare parts for the traveller (new plastic wheels, moveable stops and end stops) that they had ordered, failed to turn up on Monday and we had to wait until Wednesday before they finally did appear.

The earlier removal of the old car had proved to be a complex and nerve wracking operation.The existing end stops on the track had been cunningly fixed by means of machine screws from the underside of the stainless steel base plate that ran the length of the traveller, but these screws were not also fastened through the fibreglass bridge deck of the cockpit. That meant that the only way of accessing them was by removing the base plate. BUT all the machine screws attaching the traveller to the base plate had corroded solid. No amount of battering by either us or the guys from Eurospar could shift them. The only options appeared to be a lengthy and of course expensive operation to drill them all out in order to disassemble the whole structure and remove the base plate, or to cut off the end of the base plate with the offending stop attached to it.

We decided on the latter! Not that straightforward though with the plate flush on the fibreglass bridge deck. The ship's hacksaw could not cut flush with the blade owing to protrusions below it. Fortunately Eurospar's hacksaw could but even so it was by far from a straightforward operation. A great deal of bashing and hammering was also employed until at last the guys were able to remove the end of the plate and the stop. Thank goodness AS was robustly built!

By the time the spares arrived late on Wednesday we were itching to be off and did not want to delay our departure further by installing a new section of base plate (which would require removing all the head lining (again) under the bridge deck in order to secure the new end stop. Fortunatly a swift alternative could be implemented - we used one of the old moveable stops as a temporary end stop and had the whole unit back together in 30 minutes.

Next up - where to go? Ireland and/or the Scilly Isles beckoned and had been on our wish list from the off AND we had just purchased new charts and pilots. However, a grumpy looking low was developing west of Ireland and was forecast to move NE along with attendent wiggles in the isobars. As Mick pointed out these were not disimilar conditions from those that gave rise to the 1979 Fastnet disaster (which we sat out on my Dad's Standing Gaff Cutter in Jersey). Reluctantly therefore I bowed to wiser counsel and we decided to head in the opposite direction - to the Channel Isles.

Tides dictated an evening start so we headed out at 1800 in the gathering gloom and a fresh and squally westerly wind. We motored out through "The Bridge", set sail (with two reefs) in the outer harbour and aimed south. Within 30 minutes one reef was shaken out closely followed by the next and by 2200 we were motoring once more due to the by now very light westerly wind. Our escape from the on coming Low was all too complete!

The rest of the crossing was largely uneventful and noteworthy only for excessive use of the engine. We sailed whenever we could make 4 knots, but that was significantly less than 50% of the time (see the stats below).

We did finish the passage with a cracking sail down the Little Russel in a mixture of bright sunshine and fog patches and entered St Peter Port at 1800 on the 31st making our passage one of exactly 24 hours. We were greeted by one of the marina chappies who after establishing our draft (1.4 meters) declared there was just enough water for us to get over the sill to the marina. There wasn't. At least not without excessive trauma.  As we cautiously edged over the sill in a significant swell we grounded with a jarring crash on a falling tide. The only person more aghast than the marina chappy was me. The image I conjured up of Arctic Smoke stranded on the sill with her mast buckling against the harbour wall was not a pretty one. The marina chappy called for a halyhard to try and lean us over enough to free the keel from the sill's grip. As one was passed over and my cool began to blow, AS gave a wiggle and was over. Welcome to Guernsey I thought!

Rough ket stats:

Departed Plymouth 1800 on 31/7/13
Distance over the ground = 98 nautical miles
Total hours = 24
Engine hours = 15
Sailing hours = 9
Average speed over ground = 4k
Arrived St Peter Port 1/8/13 1800

Arctic Smoke in St Peter Port shortly after arrival (in the middle)

 

We were all in need of a stiff drink after that and the still sunny evening suggested G&T on the quarter deck was in order. Mick was dispatched to find the necessary ice but came back empty handed. Both the two local super markets were waiting for their next delivery of freezer stuff - 3 days off. Apparently nowhere on this one time centre of duty free trading, could an ice cube be found. We therefore repaired ashore in search of a good pub but once again were disappointed. The Guernsey harbour area once (that is 30 years ago) replete with good watering holes had only seedy and scruffy establishments to tempt the visitor.

Back to the boat for another excellent meal cooked up by Bernie.

Bernie's and the crew's delight

The next day we deserted Guernsey for Herm via local tripper boat. 

Herm from St Peter Port

The crew on the tripper boat

Herm at least was still the jewel in the Guernsey Crown. Her wonderful beaches were unblemished and even the sun came out (for a while). We spent a very pleasant day appreciating this beautiful and still unspoilt island.

Both the above - shortly after our arrival on Herm

Shortly after that!

All the above - some of the local sights!

 

On our return from Herm and with the previous night's disappointments in mind we first partook of yet another Bernie delight and then repaired to the Yacht Club over looking the harbour where we spent an enoyable evening and planned the next leg. We had still not completely given up on the idea of reaching Ireland or the Scilly Isles but that grumpy Low was still moving up the Irsih Sea. We decided to give it time to move on and so settled for a short leg up to my favourite Island, Alderney. From there if the weather allowed we still had just enough time for a "dash" to the Scillies before commencing the homeward run. Our route would be up the 'Little Russell' and 'The Swinge'. The local weather was forecast to be benign and we planned to arrive at The Swinge at slack water in order to avoid the worst of the overfalls.

Close encounters with Aliens and the Royal Navy - 25/7

Until now I have completely forgotten to record the two most notable experiences of our passage to Plymouth.

The first was a mysterious red light suspended in the night sky off Portland Bill. My charts were a couple of years old and did not mention it but it seemed to be hovering at some height directly over our planned route. After much head scratching I decided to call up the coast guard for advise. It was only a Met Office mast with a red light at the top to warn aircraft!

The second occurred as we completed our crossing of Lyme Bay. Increasingly frequent announcements came over the VHF from Royal Fleet Auxiliary Fort Austin about war ships and exclusion zones and delays to firing; until finally I had to take notice. They appeared to be referring to a patch of the bay baring an uncanny resemblance to our own position. There also appeared to be a number of grey shapes materialising and disappearing in and out of the equally grey gloomy afternoon mist that surrounded us. Feeling slightly alarmed I called up Royal Fleet Auxiliary Fort Austin on the VHF (a first for me), gave our position and asked them to repeat the co-ordinates of the exclusion zone they were using. They re-assured us that we were out of range and then gave us the position information. "Funny" I thought, that still sounds extremely close. I therefore plotted the zone's and our own position and discovered that we were all of 1 nautical mile outside the exclusion zone.

Our log records: "If we are hit and this log is discovered please pass to S Fisher of 41 Croydon Road, London SE 20 7TJ with instructions to sue the MOD!

Delayed at Plymouth

After fouling a mooring line round the prop of club launch (and I learned later probably causing damage) on Friday night 19/7 the Saturday was spent recovering and doing still more jobs. Finally departed Hoo 1230 Sunday. Anchored Margate Hook that evening to wait for the tide. Departed 0000 Monday

Tuesday 0600 after hours of motoring made Portsmouth. Quick turn around to drop off Andy and pick up Stephen then Newtown that evening to wait for the tide (after I ran boat aground next to isolated danger mark). Then off 0200 Wednesday. Got to Plymouth 0500 Thursday again after mostly motoring. However whilst sailing in the last few hours in heavy swell broke mainsheet traveller on a gybe.

Got the guys from Eurospar to help out but parts delayed. Now expected Wednesday. In the meantime I had weekend with Sharon and boys based in Weir Quay and the crew lodged in Plymouth. We met up with old Friends and had a great time.

Rough key stats - Hoo to Plymouth via Margate Hook, Portsmouth, & Newtown River:

Started 21/7/13

Total distance covered over ground = 287 nautical miles

Total hours = 77

Engine hours = 47

Sailing hours = 12

Anchor hours = 12 (Margate Hook & Newtown)

In Port hours = 6 (Portsmouth)

Average speed = 4k (underway only)

Arrived 25/7/13

All a bit depressing from a sailing point of view, especially when one considers that in the few hours sailing we did do we managed to break the mainsheet traveller.

Nearly Ready!

Last weekend we (me, Mick and Bernie) took the boat into Chatham Marina for last minute jobs so we had access to shore power and showers. Both were welcome given the 30c temperatures although a power cut on Saturday evening threatened to deprive us of the showers. Fortunately it was short lived.

Jobs on a boat seem to breed - the more you do the more need to be done! However, the list of things that have to get done before we depart for westward destinations this coming weekend is almost completed. The new sails went on, the 12v sockets installation got finished, the loo door was prevented from falling off its runners, the u-bend vent on the loo inlet that I broke last weekend when I installed the u bend vent on the loo waste pipe (see I told you) got installed; the bottom got scrubbed as much as it could be from the dinghy and pontoon; the grotty spray hood got repaired; the Yeoman Chart Plotter got fixed; the anti-slide barrier on the galley work top got fixed; the hinge on one of the cabin lockers got fixed, and more besides. Special mention has to be made of Bernie's upholstery cleaning service (but alas no photo). He brought his steam cleaner and gave everything a thorough deep clean.

Last week the solar panel installation got completed (and it worked) and most importantly my posh new clock and barometer got installed.

As you can see the cover around the mast/roof aperture did not. Indeed it was only on viewing this photo that I realised there should be one. The original is long gone. A new one will have to wait.

This Friday we go down to the boat after work to undertake club mooring patrol duties over night. On Saturday morning we'll take the boat into Hoo marina for a few hours to load our gear, off load more 'stuff', do the shopping and, do some very last minute jobs. Then the plan is to push off at lunchtime on the ebb. Destination could be the East Swale, Ramsgate or even Portsmouth. The settled weather is supposed to give us moderate winds from the East for a few days more and we may take as much advantage as possible. We need to get near a rail station on Tuesday to drop Andy off and pick-up Stephen.

Solar Power - nearly, weed and other frustrations

Last weekend was the weekend earmarked for completion of the solar panel installation. Of course not everything went according to plan. I arrived on Saturday morning at about 0900.  Mick was due to follow on later that afternoon. Only 3 weeks had passed since my last visit and so I was very disappointed to see a noticeable growth of weed and slime on the very expensive Verometal anti-fouling. I spent an hour in the dinghy with a broom trying to remove the offending material within reach. It did seem to come off reasonably readily and I hope the act of brushing would help to activate the copper. Time will tell.

It was a gorgeous summer day which came as something of a surprise despite being the 1st of July.

First job was to fashion the plywood base for the solar panel - this was to be fixed onto the hatch cover. Within a couple of hours the task was done and two coats of wet epoxy applied to protect it.

During this process I realised I did not have my phone and hoped it was in the car and not at home. That would make liaising with Mick somewhat difficult. I needed to visit the Chandlers to pick up the U bend for the loo and so once the tide had risen enough to allow a direct line into the marina I rowed ashore. Thankfully the phone was in the car. Back on board I wasted a couple of hours trying to repair the draining board.

After a couple of pathetic attempts I gave up and decided to email the measurements to Bernie who is a bit of a joiner buff.

By this time though the plywood mounting board for the solar panel was sufficiently dry to install. An hour or so later the panel was mounted.

That grubby splodge in the foreground is a very worn out folded spray hood. I had hoped to have it replaced by now but.....

Mick was delayed by his family commitments and decided to come down the following morning. I was to go ashore to collect him from Strood station at 0919. This would give us enough time - just, to get back to the boat before the tide dropped too far.

Next morning just before I was about to row ashore he was on the phone - trouble on the trains. Suffice to say he had a nightmare journey and instead of rowing ashore I motored up to Chatham and picked him up from their waiting pontoon.

Back on the mooring and down to work. Mick confidently predicted the solar panel would be connected before lunch. It wasn't. The first rule of boat maintenance is that however long you think it will take to do any particular job, it will always take you 10 times longer - even when you have made allowances for rule 1! The final frustration was my 12v soldering iron was not powerful enough to solder the cable connectors. Later we thought we had a chance when Howard tied up alongside and out came his mains soldering iron driven by his inverter. However, even that was not up to the job. Very annoyingly we had no choice but to postpone completion to the following weekend. I have subsequently bought a gas powered iron at not inconsiderable expense. I hope it  is up to the job.

Meantime I was working on the less technically challenging job of fitting the new U bend on the loo. Success. Until that is I did the pressure test (shut the outlet and pumped the loo) where upon the bloody pipe suddenly sprang a new leak. It appears that the previous application of steam to fit the pipe had weakened it as the leak was at a point where the pipe stretched over the skin fitting. Out came the self amalgamating tape and a temporary repair was affected. Back home I ordered more pipe at £10 a meter only to find it was out of stock and will have to wait 7-10 days.

Another job I had planned to do was fit my shiny new Barometer and Clock (the latter a gift from a grateful customer) but I left the bloody things at home. I was however able to shape and varnish a handsome piece of mahogany (an old draw bottom) that my mate Tony gave me a couple of years ago when I still had my wooden Folkboat and collected such things like my life depended on them - which I suppose it may have done whilst I still had the Folkboat!

Finally on the topic of frustrations there are two ongoing; one is trying to finalise accommodation for the family so we can meet up with them in Plymouth over the weekend of 27/28 July. Currently waiting for confirmation from Rupert that he can accommodate them at the Basket Factory (strange name look forward to finding out more) near  Weir Quay Boatyard on the Tamar (which looks like a delightful spot) where we plan to park up for the weekend. Fingers crossed. The second, is the delay to the delivery of my new sails. They should have been ready weeks ago. The continued delay in getting the boat ready meant I had not been too concerned until now but today I received an email from the sail maker that made me doubt whether they would ever arrive. The latest commitment from them is that they will be dispatched next Wednesday which will give me time to fit them before the weekend of our departure on 20/7 for (maybe) Ireland via Plymouth. Once again my fingers are crossed.

We did manage to complete the installation of the new wind speed instrument so the weekend was not a total failure.